I’m back at Namche again. Let recap on the unbelievable events over
past few days.
Day 1 Lukla to Monjo
Day 2 Monjo to Namche
Day 3 Namche to Pangboche (an ascent of 500m)
Day 4 Pangboche to Chukung (an ascent of 800m)
Day 5 Chukung to base camp
Day 6 supposed to be summit day, but would you believe it, my
climbing boots broke into pieces just as I was preparing to hit the
snow at 1.30am.
We had some problems finding enough propane canisters at Namche.
That got sorted out. We moved at lightning speed. On day 4, the
altitude gain would have been fatal to most mere mortals. Obviously
my hypoxicator worked. I did have some mild headache and loss of
appetite, but they went away after a night’s rest.
Base camp gave me some idea of what would happen if hell freezes
over. Everything in my tent was frozen. A right of ice crystals
gather around my sleeping bag. They came from my breath. I shivered
for hours waiting for the time to depart for the summit. Everything
was ready. The weather was not too bad, I was feeling well and just
as I was about to put on my climbing boots, I found it difficult to
squeeze my feet inside. When I finally squeezed my feet in and
started waking, the plastic layer started cracking. My guide and I
examine the most curious phenomenon and decided that the boots would
not survive at 6000m.
I literally froze in my steps. The decision was simple. I either
aborted the climb or risk frostbite – or worse. Reluctantly, I
turned back. I was angry at first, but realised that nobody was to
blmae. Maybe Guru Rinpoche just didn’t want me to climb that
mountain that day. Anyway, I think my guide was probably the most
relieved person. My attempt to be the first non-Sherpa to do a
winter ascent of Island Peak had failed, but I also relised that the
Sherpas themselves are not too keen on such challenges. The biggest
success is probably my hypoxicator which definitely works wonders
for pre-trip acclimatisation. I need to do more research and refine
my crude prototype.
Well, I’m back in Namche and will be trekking to Lukla tomorrow. Day
after that, I’ll fly back to Kathmandu.
A very happy Chinese New Year to everyone. I think the most
appropriate wish would be “bu bu gao sheng”
Check out pics at Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/knapsack/sets/72157613218596727/
