Nepal January 2009

I didn’t make it to the summit of Island Peak this time. I aborted the climb when my climbing boots cracked at base camp. Singapore’s hot and humid conditions are probably not ideal for the storage of climbing boots.

I discovered that winter is not a bad time to do low altitude treks. The days are often cloudless and warm under direct sunlight. However, nights can be bitterly cold. As long as one is well-prepared for the cold, trekking itself should not be a problem.

Accommodation can be problem at the higher altitudes. Places like Namche Bazaar will look like ghost towns in winter. Those looking forward to the bakery will be disappointed. It’s closed when I was there in January. Nevertheless, residents in almost any village will open up an empty lodge for any sizeable group, so camping is still not necessary on the main trails.

But as far as food is concerned, quality and availability can be a problem when markets are not as vibrant as during the warmer months and regular cooks at the lodges look for jobs in India. Again, this problem can be economically solved in sizeable groups which can bring in their own cook and food from Kathmandu.

Climbing in winter? I have my reservations unless you have special equipment. Ordinary sleeping bags used for spring and autumn ascents are inadequate. Everything freezes at base camp, including your breath and the people who suffer the most are the porters who take turns to bring food to you in your tent. Even though I would have gone for the summit if my boots had not cracked, I wouldn’t advise anyone to do a winter ascent. I certainly wouldn’t do it again.

Nepal is rather peaceful at the moment and tourists are pouring back. The guide books were wrong. Kathmandu was crowded even in the low season. The so-called Maoists “terrorists” now form the government and it’s business better than usual. In season, hotels were full. The cost for rooms, food, transport have all gone up. Many mid-range hotels have wi-fi internet access. You can bring your notebook to Kathmandu and use it there. 3G phones work even in some places in the mountains. There are quite a few ATMs in the city. My OCBC card only works at the Standard Chartered ATMs. Maximum withdrawal each time 25,000 rupees.

The traffic in Kathmandu is worse than ever. Smoky “tuk tuks” are dying out, but the already narrow streets are even more congested. There seems to be an explosion of motorbikes. Many Nepalese youngsters ride their sleek machines around the valley. Garbage is still heaping up everywhere, but there are hardly any sacred cows playing in the mess these days. On a more “positive” note, roads are now going to places previously accessible only on foot. There is definitely a negative impact on the environment, but roads can also bring about the quick exit of garbage. Not only that, many previously long and time-consuming treks have become possible even for busy Singaporeans.

In the mountains, lodges have all been upgraded. No more drop down toilets. All manual flushing - very good when water is plentiful, a nightmare when everything is frozen. Many “didis” have even learned how to make Korean kimchi using local vegetables. One didi at Phakding makes really good kimchi which she proudly dishes out to anyone who is familiar with chopsticks.

Many things will look the same as 15 years ago, yet it is obvious that businesses are catering to domestic needs as well. Sleazy bars have sprung up everywhere in the city. Their target customers are Nepalese men. For tourists, the pashmina shawls and other souvenirs are getting more and more “plastic”. Vendors insist that there is some “yak bone” in their plastic bracelets.

The touts don’t konichiwa me so often. They have learned to say “ni hao” and tea shops (selling tea leaves) are now dealing with oolong tea. There is a flood of Chinese tourists and with them, came many more Thai, Korean and Chinese restaurants. The mainland Chinese coming from Tibet are likely to bring about further changes to Kathmandu.

I will be conducting Nepal trips again, but not as frequently as before. I can, however, design and arrange trips for any group or individual who wish to go there.

Chan Joon Yee
Singapore 2009