Once a haven for hippies and drug addicts, the former Himalayan kingdom of Nepal was mysterious a exotic. When I first visited Nepal in 1994, there was not a single escalator, elevator or ATM. Of course, times have changed. The sacred cows are vanishing, banks, ATMs even shopping centres are sprouting up everywhere, but the 3Ds of dirty, dusty and disorderly still describe Kathmandu pretty well. Meanwhile in the mountains, lodges now have wifi and burgers on the menu. But certain things don’t change – like the Himalayas. They are still beautiful, majestic and inspiring. I have also made friends over the years. They are the reason I keep going back.