Tawang is rich in intriguing history and exotic culture. The highly talented and romantic 6th Dalai Lama was born and spent his formative years here. I feel a strange connection with this maverick, probably because we were born on the same day 281 years apart. The fact that the 14th Dalai Lama’s flight for freedom ended here also makes Tawang a historically significant landmark.

I believe that in the heavenly glacial lakes, the majestic Himalayas, the imposing monasteries, the spinning prayer wheels and the fluttering prayer flags, there are many poems waiting to be written.

Travelling from Bomdila to Tawang involves the crossing of Sela Pass again. This time, a shorter route could be taken through the two tunnels. It might seem that the Sela Lake route might be more harsh and rugged, but the mountains on the other side were wore a heavy cloak of snow. There was even a frozen waterfall here. Almost 6 hours from Bomdila, we arrived at the rather quiet and nondescript town of Tawang. My very nice Nepalese driver carried my bag and helped me locate my hotel which appeared to be closed and deserted.

After making a few calls and sorting out some misunderstanding, I managed to check in, only to realise that there was a power outage. My room was spacious and decent enough but it was a freezer with no substantial heating facilities. It was too late to do much. I took a short walk on the quiet streets. Folks here were celebrating Losar but there was a bleakness in the grey sky and shuttered shops. Nevertheless, there were more Western styled cafes and restaurants here than anywhere on the West Kameng trail. Tawang is the highlight and not necessarily for the same reasons for everybody. I found a small trail climbing up on the side of a hill behind my hotel. It looked promising and I wasn’t disappointed. Through the thin fog, I managed to catch a glimpse of Tawang Monastery. Back in my hotel, I had a steamy plate of momo for dinner.

I booked a driver for my day trip the next day. A young Monpa man arrived in a nice, new car. It was already drizzling. I had hoped against hope that the weatherman would be wrong, but this time, he was spot on for two consecutive days! I would miss out on mountain views and other stunning scenery.

Tawang Monastery is the second largest Buddhist monastery in Asia and only the Potala in Lhasa can beat it. Of course, Tawang has the authenticity that Tibet today lacks. Next, I visited the Giant Buddha Temple and a war memorial which also houses relics from the war. Just across the road, is a museum built in honour of Major Bob Khating. Final destination, Urgelling Monastery dedicated to the 6th Dalai Lama Tsangyang Gyatso who gave the world many love poems instead of Buddhist teachings.

The next day was spent roaming around the wet and quiet streets. There must have been some Losar party going on somewhere, but unfortunately, I was not invited. I had a great time in Bomdila but ran out of luck in Tawang. The skies remained grey and the Himalayas remained hidden. Bumla Pass and the many beautiful lakes remained out of bounds. Why come to Tawang? To see and experience the little that I’m allowed to and hopefully get inspired.